Thursday, February 9, 2012

Spending the night inside an igloo

About a year ago I went on an italian road trip planned with my husband and my brother in law. Since we were living Versailles by car and our first stop was Genova, on northwest Italy, I thought about making a stop on my beautiful Switzerland, but couldn't have any ideas about a place we could enjoy on one day and a half. Looking for ideas I found this website called Iglu-dörf, it's a "hotel"(more like a camp) inside an igloo made of snow(not ice), and it's made from scratch every December and destroyed(melts) every beginning of April. They have several locations in Switzerland, plus a couple of ones around Europe, always on the top of a mountain.

The one I chose was in Engelberg, a ski resort next to Lucerne. We left Versailles at 6 AM and got to Engelberg at noon, we left the car on a parking lot, went to have lunch at a Rösti restaurant(very good one btw, i don't remember the name, but it was next to the sports center) and then bought our tickets for the lift.
To get to the Igloo meeting point, we had to go up the mountains on a lift until about half the way to the top of the mountain(there are several stops) and meet our guide inside a hotel(real hotel, not one made of snow).

My husband and I at the hotel before going to the igloo


Waiting for everyone to show up, we had a glass of Swiss red wine and got warm. We thought maybe we could stock some heat before our adventure, which by the way, didn't work...
When all the guests were there we left the hotel and after a 10 minute walk, we got to the igloo.
If it's a cloudy day, have in mind that it will be very difficult to find the igloo. The snow mixes with the clouds and you don't know where the snow stops and the sky starts, so my advise, don't walk around without a guide!
Outside of the igloo


The igloo looks like, well ... an igloo ... though instead of ice blocks it's a whole lot of compressed snow. Imagine the sand castles you use to make with your siblings when you were little, now paint it white and make it adult size! That's about it, but a little more difficult to destroy it (I hope so!)!
But that's only the outside. Inside everything is carved into beautiful pieces of art! Every year they choose a  theme, and when we went, it was China. All the walls from the bar were carved to form a dragon, there were ancient chinese portals between each room, chinese warriors, etc...

Carved Dragon bar
Following our warm welcome we went for a tour of all the types of rooms.
They had 5 kinds of rooms we could choose from when we made the reservation.
The standard one holds up to six people and it has almost no decoration, only the sleeping bags on top of a mattress covered with animal fur.
The romantic holds two, that's the only difference from the standard one.
The romantic plus holds two and has a private bathroom.
The romantic family holds a family of 6(and i'm not sure if you have your own bathroom).
The hot igloo is a warm room(tent) connected to the igloo(I really don't see the point of having this room! If you want to sleep in an igloo, it's implicit that it'll be cold!)


Rafael(husband) and Otavio(brother-in-law) inside the sleeping bags in our standard room.


After having our hot drinks and touring the whole igloo we had dinner!!! Cheese fondue...yayyyy!!!! The dining room had wood tables and wood stools covered in fur which made it a little less freezing!

After our great dinner we had a shot of Kirsch, a cherry brandy, that is commonly drank after heavy meals to help digestion! You almost don't feel the alcohol because of the temperature. All the alcohol goes directly into your body to help heating it!

Myself in the dining room!


After dinner we had the option to go on a night walk with snowshoes(in the form of a racket) and of course, we went! We first learned how to walk on this strange shoes, shoes that I never thought would work, but they actually do and make walking around in snow much easier than with regular shoes. We had a lot of fun, learned how to through ourselves into the snow and more important, how to get out of snow!

After a long one and half hour we were back inside the (now) warm igloo. The outside temperature was about -4°C, maybe less and windy, and inside it always stays between -1°C and 1°C.

I could barely feel my legs and wasn't able to breath without forcing my lungs, but really, it was worth it. An outstanding once in a lifetime experience! Thank god, after the walk, we were scheduled to enjoy one hour of hot tub! That saved me, the only not so good part is to change yourself into a swimsuit. In fact, there is a small warm room made of wood for people to change clothes, but it's a common room, and this might be considered normal for Europeans, but being naked in front of strangers of the opposite sex it's not something that I enjoy much, and neither do most brazilians. So, at the end I changed in our room made from snow and not wood!
View from the igloo on the next morning!


The bathroom is...hmmmm...different. There's no running water, the toilet is an actual toilet with a reaaaally  deep whole into the ground, and you don't have water to wash your hands, so you have to use hand sanitizer!

The night was difficult, I had a little bit of difficulty to breath normally, but it was all worth it. I don't recommend it to anyone that already has breathing issues or doesn't enjoy cold weather! It's really an adventure and a really different experience, one really difficult to forget. I'll do it again sometime, probably because I forgot how cold it was, but also I always think that if the temperature was thaaaaat bad, I wouldn't be able to forget. Maybe I'm right, maybe not ... hope I am!!!


IGLU-DORF 
LOCATIONS:
Engelberg, Switzerland
Gstaad, Switzerland
Davos, Switzerland
Zermatt, Switzerland
St. Moritz, Switzerland
Zugspitze, Germany
Andorra

PRICES(night, hot tea, dinner and breakfast included, lift and alcoholic beverages not included)
standard room - 149-189 euros
romantic - 249-299 euros
romantic plus - 299-349 euros
hot igloo - 399-449 euros

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Raclette

If you are reading this in Brazil, this post probably is not for you, at least not right now(summer time) but this is perfect for those of us in the North Hemisphere where the winter got to us late but it decided to come strong..."better late than never" right?

So this morning in Versailles was -10°C(14°F) and I couldn't think of anything better to eat tonight then Raclette, especially because I was in Switzerland until yesterday!

Matterhorn in the Valais, Switzerland


The Raclette is a Swiss dish, from the region of the Valais, made from cheese and potatoes. This is the base and then you can add bread, cured meat, pickled onions and cucumbers, etc..

Raclette is also the name of the cheese used to make the dish, it's a round cow's milk cheese that weights approximately 6 kg.



When it first was created, people used to cut the cheese into half a circle and melt the center by putting it next to an open fire, and then with a wood spatula they would scrape the melted cheese into a plate and eat it with boiled potatoes. That's why the name raclette which comes from the french term "racler" which means "to scrape".

Today the dish is served in restaurants, usually in the french and swiss alps with an electric plate with sliced raclette cheese or a big electrical resistance that fits half or a third of the whole cheese and you scrape it yourself by the table(which is much cooler).

When we went to have fondue at Caveau des Vignerons in Montreux, the waiter told us that you should always have cheesy dishes like raclette and fondue with white wine(not too cold)or a hot drink, he explained that you shouldn't drink anything too cold like water or soft drinks, because it makes the cheese hard in your stomach and it will cause indigestion.  I'm always looking for this kind of excuses, so I can drink more wine, it's like "No, it's not good for your health NOT to drink wine", so you have to, right?

The wines that are good to pair with it are white wines, not too acid, in France is common to drink it with a Savoie wine, in Switzerland with a Fendant from the Valais, but you could also pair it with a Riesling that is easier to find!
Christmas decorations at La Calèche 

I guess that's it, oh and the best place I ever ate Raclette was in Chamonix, a ski resort in the french Alps, next to the Mont Blanc. The restaurant is called La Calèche, and the ambiance is adorable, you feel like you're actually in a chalet on top of the Mont Blanc(well, you're not really that far from it!!!).

Bon Appétit!!!